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ANTENNAS

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ANTENNAS ( AERIALS ) 1
THE
ANTENNAS AT MØMTJ
Before
having to dismantle my shack and antennas to to a house move, I used
five main types of antennas - this has now changed somewhat, see
further down page:
1/ A trapped
Inverted L for 80m and 40m fed by RG213 coaxial cable to
the LDG Z-11 Pro antenna matching unit in the shack. This can be used
on all bands
from 80 through to 10 metres. The support post is installed at the
bottom of the garden with the end of the antenna wire being supported
by Dacron rope that is attached to a pulley on a pole at the apex of
the
roof. more
2/ A trapped dipole for 20m and 10m. This is fed by 75 ohm twin
feeder to a 1:1 balun then on to the AMU via RG213 coaxial cable. It
was initially installed horizontally, but more latterly installed
with one leg supported vertically on a 7 metre fibreglass 'Sota' pole
with the other leg supported horizontally about 2 metres above the
ground. A rather unorthodox arrangement for a balanced dipole, but it
seemed to work ok, it looked much neater than a horizontally slung
dipole and also offered a more omnidirectional radiation pattern. more
4/ A compact Inverted L for the 160 metre band - Top Band - shortened
with a loading coil. more
5/ As N9TAX Dual Band Slim Jim (J-Pole) antenna for 2m and 70cms. This
is
fixed near the top of a 10m telescopic fibreglass fishing pole that I
push up whenever
it is required. more
2011 : Current Set Up - As At December 2011:
1/ A trapped
Inverted L for 80m and 40m fed by RG213 coaxial cable to
the LDG Z-11 Pro antenna matching unit in the shack. This can be used
on all bands
from 80 through to 10 metres. The support post is installed at the
bottom of the garden with the end of the antenna wire being supported
by Dacron rope that is attached to a pulley on a pole at the apex of
the
roof. Top Band added with the addition of a switchable base loading coil. more
2/ Dual Band Fan Dipole, made from thick loudspeaker wire, mounted in the loft space for 10 meters an 6 metres.
3/ G Whip End Fed Zepps (EFZ's) for either 20m, 15m or 17m or;
4/ UnTenna style antenna for 20 through 10m using high efficiency G Whip 9:1 UnUn
5/ Watson W-50 vertical dual band colinear antenna for 2 metres and
70cm mounted on a lightweight aluminium push-up relescopic mast to a
height of approximately 7 metres a.g.l.
6/ A DK7ZB design dual band yagi antenna, with 5 elements for 2 metres
and 8 elements for 70cms, mounted horizontally for SSB. A lightweight
antenna rotator is employed and uses the same push-up telescopic mast
that the W-50 is mounted on. Hight above ground level is again around 7
metres.
7/ N9TAX Dual Band Slim Jim (J-Pole) antenna mounted in the loft as a back-up antenna.
Inverted
L Antenna for 80m and 40m (and some other HF Bands from 80m to
10m)
The
basic layout of
the Inverted L Antenna (Practical Wireless)
The first antenna that I installed was for
HF. I decided on an Inverted
L that incorporates a 7MHz trap so that it can be used on both 7MHz (40
metres) and 3.5 MHz (80 metres).
The design of this Inverted L is well known and a good design has been
published previously in Practical Wireless by Len Paget GM0ONX. It is
based on one half of the famous W3DZZ trapped dipole antenna.
It can be made entirely from scratch as a DIY project, or the 7MHz trap
could be purchased commercially as a ready made item, or whole antenna
can bought as a complete kit from Tony Nailer, G4CFY, at Spectrum
Communications. I opted to buy the 7MHz trap from Spectrum
Communications, as I already had most of the other materials required -
rope, egg insulator, plastic box, and some good aerial wire. The
Spectrum Communications trap is solid and well made and 'potted' to
protect against the elements.
This antenna is tuned for 40 metres and 80 metres, but the VSWR is
acceptable on several other bands being in the region of 2:1 to 5:1.
The designer anticipated that this antenna would be usable on five of
the H.F. bands.
I have found that with the use of the Antenna Tuning Unit it can be
used on all of the H.F. bands. However the polar radiation pattern may
very well be less
predictable on bands other than the intended 40 and 80 metres, and it
may well be less effective than might be desirable - but it does work!
The antenna is in the back garden, while the shack (radio room) is in a
bedroom at the front of the house. It is fed by a 30 metre length of
RG213 coaxial cable (it is not possible to use twin feeder for this
type of antenna as the Inverted L is an UN-Balanced aerial, whereas
Twin Feeder is BALANCED). With this length of cable I estimate the loss
in the
feeder alone to be about 1dB at 7MHz. The feed point of the aerial is
located at the base of a 16 foot high wooden pole near the bottom of
the garden. The horizontal top wire returns to a fibreglass pole
installed at the apex of the roof.
Photograph
showing
the wooden support post and termination point of the Inverted L antenna
The
post is coloured
green with green fence treatment to mast it
somewhat. I have also placed
it
near the bush to
provide further camouflage.
The
low loss RG213
coaxial cable runs from the shack at the front of
the house up into the loft and
exits
into
the
back
garden
down
the
rear wall, through some garden hose
to offer some protection
along the flower bed
to the bottom of the garden where it is connected
to the base of the Inverted L antenna.
The
suspended Inverted
L aerial with 7 MHz trap
The
Inverted L antenna
- lower section now nicely camouflaged. The
wooden
support
post
is
some
6
metres
long.
The photograph above shows the Dacron ropes
supporting the ends of the Inverted L and Dipole antennas are held in
place at the top of the fibreglass support mast by a pulley - one
pulley for each
support rope. This facilitates rapid lowering of either antenna for
adjustment or replacement. This
photograph also shows a second
rope and pulley system that was originally used to support the 20m
dipole and is now used for the top band inverted L wire aerial.
I needed a good reliable knot for securing ropes when
installing wire antennas and have found the Bowline to be one of
the most useful, it
is strong and easy to tie. A Bowline will not slip in any circumstances
and, usefully, the more load that is put on it, the tighter it gets.
The Bowline Knot
A Bowline can be used to tie two ropes together and should be used to
tie a support rope to a pulley, dipole centre and other antenna items.
It's
important
to use the correct knot for the job when fixing up wire
antennas. I find the Bowline is a very
useful for fixing end, egg and dog-bone insulators to the ends of the
wire and/or ropes. The Round Turn & Two Hitches, Anchor Bend
(Anchor Hitch) and
Buntline Hitch knots are very good for tying a rope to a pole or a
mast. A Double Sheet Bend can join two pieces of rope together - even
if they are of unequal size. 'Animated Knots' will show you how to do
them: http://www.animatedknots.com

Photo showing
pulley fixed to the top of the wooden support post and
the aerial support
rope
that
it
holds
in
place.
The
Spectrum
Communications Trap
View
of trap showing
that the joints have been thoroughly sealed against the weather with
self
amalgamating
tape
and
silicone
sealant.
Just
for
good
measure
I
sealed
the
internal side of the machine screw
that forms the connection
terminal against the
weather with Watson sealant putty.
Adding Top Band to the 80 / 40 metre Inverted L Antenna:
Due to an aborted house
move in 2010 I had removed all the antennas. While re-establishing the
aerials in 2011, and considering space limitations, I decided to
expriment with adding a loading coil to the 40m / 80m Inverted L
aerial. The loading coil has a link wire to short it out of circuit
when using the aerial for 80 metres and 40 metres. The link wire is
removed when Top Band is required.
The coil consists of approximately 37 turns of PVC covered antenna wire
wound on a short piece of PVC pipe. Once the required points of
resonance were set for 40 metres and 80 metres, the link wire was
removed and number of turns on the coil were adjusted until the
required point of resonance was found on the 160 metre band. I set it
to around 1900 kHz - the bandwidth is quite narrow.
Once the work was done, the joints and connections were sealed with
either Liquid Electrical Tape or self amalgamating tape, then the
connecting box, V bolts and white PVC pipe were sprayed with green
paint to help it all blend in with the sorroundings a little better:

Work In Progress! - September 2011
Reconfiguring Inverted L with additional Top Band Loading Coil for 160 metres.
A fibreglass pole replaces the heavy wooden post.

Adding 160 metre loading coil to the 80m / 40m Inverted L Aerial.
The loading coil has a link wire to short it out of circuit when using the aerial for 80 metres and 40 metres.
The link wire is removed when Top Band is required.
The coil consists of approximately 37 turns wound on a piece of PVC pipe.

Adding 160 metre loading coil to the 80m / 40m Inverted L Aerial.
The loading coil has a link wire to short it out of circuit when using the aerial for 80 metres and 40 metres.
The link wire is removed when Top Band is required.
The coil consists of approximately 37 turns wound on a piece of PVC pipe.
Important notes on effective Grounding by Jim K8OZ
Mike - I was reading about your work on the 160 meter Inverted L, and
it makes me want to go out and build some more antennas!
Congratulations. Your story is fascinatng, and very well
documented.
The only thing I can offer as a suggestion is to get as much radial
wire along the edge of your property as possible (assuming your XYL
will not allow you to bury radial wire all over your yard). Even
if you can only run multiple wires 1/8th of a meter apart from each
other, and parallel to each other, your losses will be reduced.
The ground lossses have quite an impact on your transmitted signal, so
any wire you can "hide" along the edge of your property will help
improve your signal strentgh - little, by little...! { It
may also affect your resonant frequency slightly, but that's easy to
deal with by adjusting with an antenna tuner or slightly changing the
loading coil. }
Good luck OM, and keep up the refinements on your antenna system. You're doing great! 73,
Jim, K8OZ
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
Dipole
or
Doublet
Antenna
for
20m
and 10m
This is an
antenna trapped dipole for 20m and 10m. Currently it
is fed by 75 ohm twin feeder to a 1:1 balun in the loft, then on to the
AMU via
a short RG213 coaxial cable. Although it was initially installed
horizontally,
it is now installed with one leg supported vertically on a 7 metre
fibreglass 'Sota' pole with the other leg supported horizontally about
2 metres above the ground. This is a rather unorthodox arrangement for
a
balanced dipole, but it seems to work ok and was inspired by another
radio amateur's idea - although I don't recomment balanced feeder for
this arrangement!
It looks much neater than the
horizontally strung dipole and offers a more omnidirectional radiation
pattern too.
Dipole
Centre with
PVC covered wire and 75 ohm twin feeder attached
Removable
end
support
method
for
wire
dipole
using a plastic antenna
insulator,
snap-hook and Dacron rope
Photo showing how
the wooden support posts are held in the ground by the steel Met Post.
This Met Post and wooden pole now supports the 7 metre high fibreglass
Sota Pole (fishing pole)
|

The 'deformed
dipole'.
A Dipole for 20m and
10m.
One leg is vertical,
giving a more omnidirectional pattern
and
supported
by
the
7
metre
long fibreglass fishing pole, while the other
leg runs off horizontally at about 2 metres above the ground.
This antenna is fed
by 75 ohm twin feeder. |
Compact
Antenna
for
Top
Band
A Shortened Inverted L for 160 Metres
Despite the dreadful noise on top band caused by modern electronic
gadgets and the difficulty in accommodating a necessarily large aerial
in a small garden, I was keen to try to get on to top band. I
experimented with some different ideas during 2009, some of which are
shown on this page.
Eventually I settled on the design shown below. It is an Inverted L
type aerial, shortened by the use of a loading coil. It uses a
fibreglass telescopic fishing pole to allow it to be easily lowered out
of sight when not in use. Read more
here>
Shortened Base Loaded Top Band Antenna For
Small Gardens
uses a fibreglass
telescopic fishing pole to allow it to be easily lowered out of sight
when not in use
Read
More Here >
End
Fed
Zepp Antennas for 20m / 17m and 15m
Above is a high efficiency, high quality commercially built Zepp style
antenna using a half wave radiator. However there is a difference -
unlike the traditional Zepp antennas, G4ICD's design dispences with the
long trailing 1/4 wave twin feeder matching section and counterpoise
and, instead, uses a G-Whip's helical tuned unit.
The end fed Zepp is extremely versatile - it can simply be hung from
the facia board or guttering just outside one's window: The 1/2 wave
wire radiator made of high strength Kevlar is easily sloped down the
garden and is camoflage green in colour so as to be almost invisible.
The G-Whip Zepp is supplied with a facia board insulator, a throwing
line with plus cable strain relief and fittings, the IP65 waterproof
resin potted box fitted with UHF connectors (SO239) for coax feeder.
The Zepp can be mounted vertically (e.g. using a telescopic fibreglass
pole), horizontally or sloping and can be ready in a matter of minutes.
I then decided to try an excellent new design developed by Geoff
G4ICD - an End Fed Zepp antenna with a difference. The G-Whip End Fed
Zepps are high efficiency, resonant mono band antennas utilising a half
wave radiator, however this new G-Whip design by G4ICD dispences with
the long trailing 1/4 wave twin feeder matching section and
counterpoise and, instead, uses a helical tuned unit. Using versions
for 20m, 17m and 15m will enable me to get on the air with the minimum
of fuss since the G-Whip end fed Zepp can simply be hung from the facia
board or guttering just outside one's window. The high-strength Kevlar,
camouflage green 1/2 wave wire radiator is easily sloped down the
garden to be almost invisible.
VHF - UHF
(2008)
Initially I used a Watson W-2000 tri-band
antenna 10m aluminium telescopic pole.
(2011)
In mid 2011 I experimented with an excellent N9TAX designed dual band Slim-Jim (J-Pole) antenna for 2m
and 70cms. This is made from lightweight 450 Ohm ladder line which can
be fixed to the top of a 10m tall fibreglass, telescopic, fishing pole.
N.B. I tried to home-brew the DJB-1 dual band J-Pole antenna using
plans published by the ARRL in QST magazine. I wanted a neat antenna
that could be enclosed in a protective tube to minimise weathering
effects. However trying to tune this antenna at UHF frequencies proved
to be frustratingly difficult to do and after two full days work I
could not get the thing resonate accurately at the correct frequency.
Sadly, for this reason, I cannot recommend the Dual Band J-Pole as a
home-brew project.
The N9TAX antenna on the other hand works very well. However it cannot
be enclosed in a tube due to the velocity factor effect de-tuning the
antenna's resonant frequencies.
(Late 2011)
Due to difficulties with
the stability of a lightweight fishing pole as a support I moved back
to using the lightweight aluminium telescopic mast, with stays, to
support a Watson W-50 vertical dual band colinear for 2 metres and 70
cms FM.
KNOTS
FOR SECURING WIRE ANTENNAS
I have found the Bowline,
Round Turn & Two Hitches, Anchor Bend and Buntline Hitch to be
some of the most useful.
The Bowline I find most useful for fixing end, egg and dog-bone
insulators to the ends of the wire and/or ropes.
The Round
Turn & Two Hitches, Anchor Bend and Buntline Hitch knots are very
good for tying a rope to a pole or a mast.
A Double Sheet Bend can join two pieces of rope together - even if they are of unequal size.
More at Animated Knots.com: http://www.animatedknots.com
I know that if I use the correct knot that the these parts of the
antenna will be as strong as possible.
OTHER
ANTENNAS
Our good friend in Australia Felix Scerri, VK4FUQ, uses Inverted V
antennas but also highly recommends the Quad Loop style
antenna for HF
work. These are well worth investigating, and you can read more
here: Antennas
3 with more antenna ideas on
Antennas 2
and Antennas 4 and the Links Page here and here
Q.T.H. Move
in 2010 !%*?"*!?!
We decided that we'd like to move housein 2009, we found a new property
in early 2010. My amateur radio aerials were duly taken down
and the ham shack packed away. However after months of delays
we still had not moved by August 2010, but we were still hoping to
move.
However after months of messing about and stringing us along our buyer
pulled out the very day before we were to exchange contracts later in
August
2010.
This cost us a lot of time and a great deal of wasted money. Thank you
Mrs xxxxxx :-(
After a wasted year we decided to stay where we were and take the house
of the market. Instead we spent the next eight months remodelling and redecorating. No
time for playing radio of course and besides everything was still all packed away
in boxes!
In mid 2011 I was getting frustrated that I had no radio. So I suppose it's time to think about re-establishing the station
and to start planning the installation of some antennas. Of course Jules, my XYL,
understandably questions my antennas and experiments!
Due to time constraints I will probably start again with a
somewhat
temporary antenna. I was thinking along the lines of an "Untenna" - so I installed a
7.2 ish long wire supported on a vertical fibreglass pole with a
horizontal 'counterpoise' connected via a 9:1
balun to the coax back to the shack. Of course it is a fairly low
efficiency multi-band
(wideband) antenna, but easy to get going quickly. The GWhip Widebander antenna
by Geoff Brown G4ICD is possibly the highest quality antenna of this type
available, using a very high efficiency, top quality
9:1 UnUn with a 17 meter wire radiator and 10 metre long counterpoise -
a very
useful, versatile 'all situations' antenna.
As time progressed I re-established my full size trapped Inverted L
antenna for 80metres and 40 metres and added a switchable loading coil
at its base for use on 160 meters, as described above.
Then I gradually re-established the 2 metres and 70 cms antennas with the vertical W-50 and horizontal dual band DK7ZB yagi.
Zepp
This
Way: The additional idea is to try an excellent new design, also
developed by Geoff G4ICD, an End Fed Zepp antenna with a
difference. The G-Whip End Fed Zepps are high efficiency, resonant mono
band antennas utilising a half wave radiator, however this new G-Whip
design by G4ICD dispences with the long trailing 1/4 wave twin feeder
matching section and counterpoise and, instead, uses a helical tuned
unit. Using versions for 20m, 17m and 15m, for example, would get one on the
air with the minimum of fuss since the G-Whip end fed Zepp can simply
be hung from the facia board or guttering just outside one's window.
The 1/2 wave radiator is made from high-strength Kevlar an is easily
sloped down the garden, being camouflage green in colour it is almost
invisible.
More project ideas
here>
I hope to add updates here when things begin to progress......
M0MTJ 2011
Prevous Antenna insallation:
W-2000 -
Vertical
Collinear mounted on a temporary 10m telescopic pole:
I no no longer have the
Watson W-2000 because the 10m telescopic pole that it had to be mounted
to was too cumbersome. This is how it used to be installed:
The Watson W-2000 covered VHF (2 metres / 144 MHz) and UHF
(70 cms / 430 MHz) and also, rather usefully, 6 metres (50 MHz) too.
The W-2000 is 2.5 metres long and enclosed in white fibreglass with
three radial elements at the base.
Unfortunately I had
nowhere practical to install a separate mast for
the VHF / UHF antenna, so this was mounted on top of a 30 foot
(10 metre) high telescopic aluminium mast in the back garden. The base
of the mast was placed in a handy metal sleeved hole that was already
present in a small wall in the garden. Very fortunate indeed!
The antenna is connected
to the radio via the very low loss Westflex
103 coaxial cable. The cable was left in place permanently, running
from
the shack in the front bedroom, up into the loft and out of a small
hole in the back of the house, down a drain pipe into the back garden.
From there the aerial can be connected as an when required:
When VHF or UHF operation
is required I have to connect the coaxial
cable to the Watson W-2000, fix it to the top of the telescopic mast,
which is very quick using two V bolts and 4 wing nuts, put the mast in
the hole and raise it to a good height. I tend to extend it so that the
bottom of the antenna is at about 24 feet in the air, the height of the
apex of the house, so it is in fairly clear space.
A VHF and UHF aerial needs
to be as high as possible since at these
frequencies communication is essentially local and 'line of sight' -
unless heightened propagation conditions, such as Sporadic E or a
Temperature Inversion is prevailing at the time.
Even at 24 feet the mast
is rather wobbly, so it was tied down using
three nylon guy ropes.
The
Watson W-2000 on to of the extended telescopic pole - about 8 or 9
metres high.
Photograph
of
a Watson
W-2000
on Telescopic Mast at the lowest position
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